We had picked up Scallops: A New England Coastal Cookbook some while ago in New Bedford, where these things are decided. Elaine Tammi and Karin A. Tammi have written not just a cookbook, but a celebration that honors the work and heritage.
As regular readers of this blog will know, we have taken full advantage of being able to spend our weekends alongside the country's leading fishing port. New Bedford's string of 19 years of leading the nation in fishing revenue has equally to do with the hard work of its mariners and the high value of its scallops. My year-round rowing adventures include keeping a careful eye for the ships that are bringing in that catch or heading out for more, rain or shine, by sunlight or moonlight or lamplight.
We enjoy buying those scallops at Kyler's catch (cars in front, trucks to the side, boats out back), where the seafood is FRESH and the staff incredibly knowledgeable. If we go to Kyler's with a recipe for something that is not available -- because it is not available locally -- they will help us find a local alternative. We have prepared those scallops in a variety of ways, mostly on the stovetop and mostly with few other ingredients, because the delicate flavor and texture of the precious scallops should be primary. So as much as I have enjoyed browsing Scallops, we had not yet found something both novel and simple enough to try.
Until yesterday -- local friends who were raised in coastal Connecticut were coming over for dinner, and I decided to dare trying something new with people who really know their seafood. I have eaten scallop casseroles of various kinds before, but this would be the first one I would prepare myself -- from page 300.
BUT WAIT: Back up a bit. Before doing anything with the scallops, I started roasting potatoes, because this is yummy but takes a long time. I cut small red potatoes (with very thin skins) into quarters and tossed them with olive oil, pepper, Old Bay, and a few other spices. I put these in the oven at 400 so they would have at least a half-hour lead on the seafood.
I did venture three modifications to the recipe: I added a shallot and I used sea scallops instead of the tiny bay scallops. I am loathe to part ways with the expert authors, but bay scallops overcook so easily that I did not want to risk baking them into little balls of rubber. The third modification is the topping -- I bought thinly sliced almonds and further chopped them before toasting them with butter in a cast-iron skillet. This was to avoid the buttered breadcrumbs in the recipe, which I enjoy but my sweetheart does not -- especially when I overdo them, which I always do.
I started with melting butter to saute portobello mushrooms, scallions, and shallots. When they were all softened, I thoroughly stirred in two tablespoons flour and then slowly added a cup of white wine a dash of lemon juice, two pounds of trimmed scallops and a bit of fresh parsley. I melted butter in a casserole dish and spread this mixture into it, after just a minute or so of simmering. I then topped them with the toasted almond crumbs.
I baked this for 20 minutes, and the result was disappointing at first: it looked like soup. I gave it an additional 15 -- which seemed way too long, but necessary. I then realized that although a bit soupy (perhaps because of the shallot), the "soup" was thickened, and a few minutes of rest would allow it to rethicken. This turned out to be correct, and the result was unanimously declared delicious. It paired well with the roasted potatoes and of course with some local white wines.
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| Thank the mariners! Photo: (The incomparable) Peter Pereira, N.B. Standard-Times |
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